Sometimes it happens that you must replace an old door with a new one, and you’re ready to shop garage door prices. Depending on the age and condition of your home, your door(s) and/or its springs and hardware may be beyond repair or you’re adding one to new construction. As you can probably guess, the garage door price is a bit more than either the door opener or installation costs. Since it’s a lot of money to spend (even if you’ve got plenty of it!), you should get an idea of what garage doors cost, what options can change the price and other unanticipated factors that can influence the price you’ll pay to get a new door installed. Let’s look at the options available to you, so you’ll at least know what you’re paying for and how to make preparations so there are no hidden costs that come up.
Factors that affect garage door prices
Just as there is no one-size-fits-all door in terms of size (garage openings do differ), there isn’t necessarily one that fits the needs and requirements of your situation. If the overall cost of a new garage door is a concern, then it’s important to learn more about the following characteristics that will definitely effect your pocketbook.
The following table lays out the factors, example options to choose in those factors, then gives you a rough cost for the door (without installation) for single and 2-car garage doors. Prices are approximate and are provided as a range in most cases since manufacturers and shops can have differences in pricing based on availability, promotions and geographic location.
This information is meant to give you an idea of garage door prices based on certain characteristics. The table uses a common two-car garage sized’ door (16′ x 7′). Prices for single-car styles run about 50%-60% that of the double. Special sizes, such as extra height will add as much as 20%-30% to the door price.
|Factor||Example Options (2-car, 16’x7′)||Garage door price range|
|Size||– “Bare bones 16′ x 7′ (single-layer, hollow, 25 gauge steel)
– “Bare bones” 18′ x 9′ over-sized double door for 2 cars (single-layer, hollow, 25 gauge steel)
|R-Value||– Double-layer door (steel and insulation, R-Value = 6, Insulation = 1 3/8″)
– Triple-layer door (steel-insulation-steel sandwich, R-Value = 9-14, Insulation = 1 3/8″)
|$605-$750 $775-$800, but as much as $1,500|
|Material/Style type||– Steel, roll-up sectional – Wood carriage||$515-$1,500 $2,000-$8,000 (wood definitely affects price!)|
|Safety||-Finger protection between folding panels as door closes||$1,200-1,500 (higher-end doors overall)|
|Windows||-Small windows added to top of door -Ornate glass design||Add $150-$200 Add $100|
|Delivery/shipping||Free (built-in) or $100-$200|
|Installation||-Installed by store||$250-$350|
|Vinyl trim kit||-Added for a more finished look||Add $30|
|Government tax credits||Insulated with measurable R-Value and proper certification||30% or up to $1,500 back on taxes|
As you can see, there are a variety of things that impact the total price of your garage door. How do you know which options to choose though, beyond the size, which you’re pretty much stuck with? Here are some thoughts to keep in mind.
- Insulation and the R-Value of the door can be important. If you have a room above your garage, or plan to create a gym or workshop in your garage then insulation is a must to keep out heat and cold. The double- and triple-layered doors also hold up to abuse more, such as from basketballs or hail. A hollow door obviously is much less than one that is insulated. For example, an entry-level insulated Cloplay will run around $800 or so, but only a bit over $600 for a hollow version.
- Safety features generally come on higher quality doors, and so you pay more overall for it. In other words, a door that helps to keep your fingers from getting stuck between collapsing panels will also have superior hinges and rollers to help the door be more solid and last longer. In some cases, garage door prices can more than double when you’re talking high-quality. It’s probably best just to spend a little extra on the garage door opener price, and get one that works well to stop closing if it meets any resistance.
- Generally, factors that add to the door’s look and aesthetics will cost more. Fortunately, color options are usually enough that you don’t need to order a custom color (unless you have something very specific in mind). When it comes to windows though, plan on adding one to two hundred dollars for a double-door. In more cases you’ll be glad you did as it helps the look of the door and your home, and also provides a nice light source in your garage during the day.
- To lower your garage door price, look for specials offered by stores and manufacturers. Many offer rebates and discounts at any given time, so be sure NOT to pay full price for a garage door. Also, check to see if installation can be discounted or in some cases, thrown in when you purchase a new door. Unless you plan on doing it yourself (DIY), then try and get the best deal you can on a garage door if you agree to the installation service. By all means, get a door with a government rebate. You’ll probably learn that the rebate can pay for the extra price of insulation if your selected door qualifies. Check this out before you buy; you might as well get the best deal you can on such an expensive item for your home.
- Check your garage carefully before taking the plunge and having someone come out. Be aware of any abnormal issues with the framing around the opening. Also, see if the ground is level where the door closes. Check the trim outside as well. All these things can creep up and add to your garage door price if an installer insists it be adjusted or fixed before they install. In most cases, they will probably be prudent in doing so, so perhaps it’s a good idea to address those issues beforehand or at least understand what you’re getting into.